Pocket-hole joinery being used in a simple butt joint. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)The primary design of the pocket hole jig is to place a pocket hole so that when the screw is driven, it emerges at or near the center of the material thickness being fastened together, drawing the two pieces tight and their surface flush. This woodworking jig makes stile and rail joinery fast and easy, eliminating the need to use mortise and tenon joints. Please review the following information to become familiar with this jig, I think you'll see the benefit of using a pocket hole jig.I have used a kreg pocket hole jig for the last 5 years, it is used to join stiles to rails on cabinet face frames, wainscot raised panel frames and more. The one I use is an older model of the Kreg R3 jr. pocket hole jig, which comes with a clamp pad adapter, stepped drill bit, #6 driver bit, depth collar, allen wrench, starter screw set, and durable carrying case. This jig is simple to use but there are 3 guidelines that one needs to follow to get the most out of this pocket screw jig.
- Jig set-up position relating to material thickness
- Drilling depth and control
- Screw length and thread pitch
There are three standard material thicknesses used in woodworking today. The thickness of the material will determine how the kreg jig jr is set-up and it's recommended drilling depth. - 3/4" material used in cabinetry
- 1/2" material used in drawer and box construction
- 1-1/2" material used in frame construction (i.e. decks, patio furniture)
For each jig position you must select the correct screw length. Use a fine threaded screw for use in hardwoods and a coarse threaded screw for use in softwoods such as pine, plywood, particle board and MDF.
- 3/4" material- use 1-1/4" screws
- 1/2" material- use 1" screws
- 1-1/2 material- use 2-1/2" screws
I use this jig with 3/4" material 99.9% of the time, so the depth collar is set to 3-1/2" from the step of the drill bit (the step is where the drill bit steps down in size at the pilot). The depth collar is set at 3-5/16” for 1/2” material and 4-1/4” for 1-1/2” material.
First, clamp the jig to the workpiece using the face clamp placing the stop against the end grain of the square end in order to drill holes running with the grain of the wood piece.
Second, use a clamp to secure the material with the jig attached to your workbench. Insert the tip of the drill bit about half way down into the drill guide. Start the drill to full speed and plunge the drill into the guide until the depth collar contacts the rim of the drill guide. Back the drill out and let the bit stop turning. Never attempt to hold the jig in your hand when drilling!
Assembly/ Driving the pocket hole screwsRemove the face clamp from the guide body. Position the adjoining piece (I use a bit of carpenter's wood glue in the joint) and place the large pad of the clamp on the face side of the joint. Be sure the clamp pad is equally balanced over each workpiece at the joint line. Adjust the closure pressure until the two parts are firmly secured. the face clamp will keep the face surface of the two pieces flush with each other during assembly. I recommend using a cordless impact drill, because it has an adjustable clutch. Drive the screws (two holes) home drawing the joint tight. That's it you're done, now sand the joint to finish.
That is how to use a Kreg pocket hole jig, it is a two step process and creates a tight, long lasting joint. There are also wood plugs you can use to fill the pocket screw holes, if you choose to do so. The kreg jig jr will cost about $40, but even if you just make a few cabinet face frames a year, this jig will pay for itself by saving you time in face frame assembly. Not to mention that the face frame will last a very long time. Don't forget to use a bit of glue during assembly.
The video below shows several ways one can use the Kreg r3 jr. pochet hole jig...
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